Rust Proofing & BB Woes
Last weekend, we got the frames DIY-rust proofed. We got a couple of cans of LPS3 - Rust Inhibitor and only used up about 1.5 cans. Sprayed right into the frame and fork, wherever we could get access to the insides of the frame. That was a quick 30 minute job. I left it hanging at home by the window grill and within a day, the liquid stuff has formed a sheet of tacky-like gum. Good stuff and will protect the insides for at least 2 years before a re-application is called for.
Regarding 'the build'....well still waiting on Totalcycling's order!! Damn those guys are slow. Everything else is IN. So yesterday I did some experimentation. I installed the Shimano BB UN54, fixed on the crank, bolted it in and measure the chainline. It was approx 46-46.5mm.....way off the 42.5mm perfect chainline theoretically required by the DA hubs + cogs of the rear wheel.
Upon further observation I noticed the drive side BB cup lip still had a good 1-1.5mm to go (I gave up cos that was like the limit I could get it into with the tools I had ; I need a freaking longer wrench to give it a good turn!). Wanted to try to see if I could get it in further but I could not remove the crank without the crank puller! So I'm waiting to get it from KL today to try again tomorrow. Also I think the crank bolt can give it a good 0.5mm inner with great force. A tip was to ride for a while then tighten can continue to do this for a while until its next to impossible to tighten further.
With the 1.5mm + 0.5mm gained (ideally). That will put my chainline to 44mm-44.5, within 2mm which is quite a good fit and should not pose any problems in practice!
Regarding 'the build'....well still waiting on Totalcycling's order!! Damn those guys are slow. Everything else is IN. So yesterday I did some experimentation. I installed the Shimano BB UN54, fixed on the crank, bolted it in and measure the chainline. It was approx 46-46.5mm.....way off the 42.5mm perfect chainline theoretically required by the DA hubs + cogs of the rear wheel.
Upon further observation I noticed the drive side BB cup lip still had a good 1-1.5mm to go (I gave up cos that was like the limit I could get it into with the tools I had ; I need a freaking longer wrench to give it a good turn!). Wanted to try to see if I could get it in further but I could not remove the crank without the crank puller! So I'm waiting to get it from KL today to try again tomorrow. Also I think the crank bolt can give it a good 0.5mm inner with great force. A tip was to ride for a while then tighten can continue to do this for a while until its next to impossible to tighten further.
With the 1.5mm + 0.5mm gained (ideally). That will put my chainline to 44mm-44.5, within 2mm which is quite a good fit and should not pose any problems in practice!
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